Costa Rica’s hidden culture – the Bribri community

When you think of Costa Rica, the first thing that usually comes to mind is the verdant nature and incredible wildlife, and there’s no doubt that this is one of the country’s major draws. However, Costa Rica isn’t only rich in natural wonders, but in fascinating indigenous cultures. A visit to Talamanca, close to Puerto Viejo on the country’s northern Caribbean coast, provides a window into this little-known aspect of Costa Rican life.

As we arrived at the indigenous reserve of the Bribri people, we were welcomed by the village shaman, also known as an awa, who invited us into his thatched conical house; the heart of the village and a physical representation of the spiritual beliefs held by the community. With our guide acting as an interpreter, the shaman spoke to us at length about his clan’s way of life, explaining about subjects as wide-ranging as education, marriage, social structure and traditional medicines. It was fascinating to learn about the healing properties of various plants and herbs, and how the Bribri use these natural materials in their everyday lives.

Before departing the conical house, the shaman invited us to be blessed in a traditional ceremony, passing large leaves heated on a log fire over our pulse points. It was a memorable and fascinating experience – one couldn’t help but feel calm and enlightened on emerging from the conical house.
 
After saying our goodbyes to the shaman, we were transported to the village close by, where the shaman’s brother, Catato Lopez, was on hand to show us around the nearby forest. He pointed out the plants and trees that are used by the Bribri for healing, cooking and manufacture; I was captivated by the way he was able to weave the natural strands from a native tree’s leaves to create a strong rope, and the community’s use of the achiote plant as a lipstick was so resourceful!

 
 

Costa Rica is recognised worldwide for its chocolate production, and this cultural tour would not have been complete without a glimpse into the traditional methods used by the Bribri to create the delicacy. From the picking of the cacao right through to roasting the beans and grinding them into a paste, we were able to get involved with the process, making the eventual tasting of the pure, bitter chocolate with a sweet banana all the more satisfying.

After a typical lunch of chicken, yucca and sweetcorn served in a folded banana leaf, we made our way to a waterfall for a refreshing dip and had time to reflect on the day’s activities before our transfer back to Puerto Viejo.
 
This tour provided an intriguing and unexpected insight into one of Costa Rica’s carefully preserved indigenous cultures. For those keen to get off the beaten track and discover a hidden side of this varied country, I would thoroughly recommend a visit to Puerto Viejo and the welcoming and resourceful Bribri community.
 

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