Day 1
Fly from Mexico City into Oaxaca. You will be met at the airport by a Travel The Unknown representative and brought to your hotel. Rest of the day free. Meal plan: N/A
Oaxaca is at the heart of all things indigenous in Mexico with more indigenous groups than anywhere else in the country and this is clearly visible on its streets. At the centre of Oaxaca lies the city's famous traffic-free square known as the Zocalo. This is a fantastic place to people watch with cafes lining the edges of the square and a constant flow of people weaving in and out of the square or sitting enjoying its shady benches. A colonial city, Oaxaca oozes character and boasts a vast range of crafts and contemporary art. Surrounded by famous archaeological sites, the city itself also has a fascinating history -with Aztecs, the Spanish invasion and the city’s growing importance in the life and trade of southern Mexico. Earthquakes in 1854 and 1931 left much of the city in ruins and effectively uninhabitable. Oaxaca has seen the largest expansion in the last 25 years however, as migration from rural areas has increased.
Day 2
Visit the ancient pyramid of Mitla, the bizarre terrains and petrified waterfall of Hierve el Agua and the world's widest tree, El Tule. We will then visit the indigenous farmers market of Tlacolula to see the preparations for Día de Muertos (Day of the Dead). Return to Oaxaca for the night. Meal plan: B
Mitla derives its name from the Nahuatl word "Mictlan", meaning "Place of the Dead". Similarly, the Zapotecans call it "Lyobaa" meaning "Burial Place". This reflects the historic importance of ancient kings and priests tombs within the city structures. Although the city dates back to as early as 200AD, there is archaeological evidence that it was inhabited from 900BC. There are structural remains of the city that correspond with the height of Zapotecan rule over the region from Monte Alban (500 BC to 800 AD) although the ruins at Mitla date predominantly from the 13th and 14th Centuries when Mitla would have been the dominant religious centre where human sacrifice would have been a central part of their worship. Of the original fifty two pyramids, only one remains. This ornate pyramid was spared Spanish wrath for one simple reason – it was carved with stone crosses. These crosses had no connection with a Christian crucifixion but the superstitious Spanish were afraid of destroying it. The 52 pyramids were related to a passage of time as were most of their archaeological and mathematical creations here. However, it does not refer to the 52 weeks in a year but rather to do with the alignments of planets where every 52 years, three planets were said to be aligned. Each group of buildings at Mitla was reserved for a specific person. So the high priest stayed in one building, the lesser priests in another, and the king in another.
Hierve Al Agua means “the Water Boils”. This is a misnomer as the steaming mineral-rich water, that seeps from fissures in the ground, is in fact cold. The name is a result of this rising steam creating the illusion of a hot spring. Beautiful natural stone ponds make for stunning outdoor swimming pools and the constant run of the mineral-heavy water has created what looks like frozen waterfalls (or “petrified waterfalls”). The beautiful landscape here is totally unique. It is believed that the springs were first used 2,400 years ago. The waters were easy to direct and were used for irrigation through a network of canals over half a square kilometre. Wells were dug and constructed about every 12 feet along the canals by the ancient Zapotecs. Research dates the construction from between 450 B.C. to 1500 A.D. Because of the high mineral content of the water, Archaeologists still debate whether this was an irrigation system or a bathing spa. The most impressive site at Hierve el Agua is the two white stone waterfalls. The flow of water has, over the years, left a nearly 100 feet high white deposit that seems to flow as if it were still liquid. The smaller fall, 40 feet tall, is still bathed by water from a warm pool at the top, large enough to swim in. Even now, all these years later, the spring still produces two litres of water a second during the summer months.
El Tule is a Montezuma Cypress and is quite something to behold – 11.6m in diameter with estimates of its age ranging from 1500 to 3000 years old, rivalling even the ancient Monte Alban. Some very famous naturalists such as Alexander von Humboldt made a special visit to Oaxaca to visit this tree. Nominated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it towers over the 17th Century church in whose courtyard it stands. The volume of the tree is about that of three large planes, and consumes some one thousand gallons of water every day. This has led to a serious drop in the surrounding water table (of up to 6m) casting doubts on the future of El Tule. The entrance fee to visit the church (and tree) is used to combat this issue.
Day 3
After breakfast take a short drive to Monte Albán, one of Mexico's most ancient and impressive archaeological sites - dating from as far back as 500BC. After spending a few hours exploring the extensive site of Monte Albán you will visit a paper factory in San Agustin Etla before visiting la CASA (an interesting art school founded by Francisco Toledo). In the late afternoon treat yourself to a traditional indigenous massage ("temazcal"). Go to Xoxocotlan and after dinner, visit the Day of the Dead celebrations in the cemetery there. Return to Oaxaca for overnight. Meal plan: B
Monte Alban, one of Mexico’s most ancient sites and the first urban complex in Mesoamerica is an ancient Zapotec capital a few kilometres west of Oaxaca city. Monte Alban (meaning “White Mountain”) sits on a flat hill top overlooking the surrounding valley. The location of the site gives rise to spectacular 360 degree views of the valley and across the extensive site of Monte Alban. First built around 500BC, early hieroglyphs found in Monte Alban suggest the Zapotec elite here may have been the first to use writing as well as a written calendar. The buildings of the site are excavated to various degrees meaning some are well excavated and their purpose well known whereas others are at an early stage of excavation and the purpose can only be guessed at. In addition, the buildings are spread over an unusually large period of time lasting up until the early 16th Century when it mysteriously fell into decline. One of the site’s most important and most impressive buildings is the Ball Court. Its prominent position is a clue as to the importance of games to the early Zapotecs, games in which the losing captain is believed to have been ritually slaughtered. Building L (also known as the Dancers Building) is one of the most shocking with stone carved figures of males with mutilated genitalia. The physical features of these carvings with plump short bodies, round heads, flat noses and slanting eyes suggest those of the Olmecs, enemies of the Zapotecs and may bear witness to the human sacrifice that almost certainly took place here. In addition to this, several buildings are believed to have astronomical functions including building P with its enormous stairway. Various buildings - platforms, palaces, mounds, shrines and tombs - dot the site, none perhaps more important to our understanding of Zapotec history and tradition than tomb 7. Tomb 7 was discovered in 1932 by Alfonso Caso, one of Mexico’s most renowned scientists and was found to contain some 200 ritual objects made from materials as diverse as Gold, silver, jade, turquoise, obsidian, pearl, alabaster, coral, as well as human and feline bones. This also provides clues as to the extent of the sophistication of trade in Zapotec times, many of these items’ origins lying in very distant lands. The items are on exhibit in the Museum of Oaxacan cultures in Oaxaca itself.
Day of the Dead in Mexico is a three day festival that focuses on commemorating the dead – particularly friends and family. Though an ancient tradition it coincides today with the Catholic holidays of All Saint’s Day and All Soul’s Day. Throughout Oaxaca there are all night parties at all of the cemeteries. Altars (ofrendas) are erected in almost every home, carefully constructed sand ‘carpets’ adorn the streets where coloured sand is formed into skeletons, faces, flowers and niches that hold candles, flowers, food and pictures. In Oaxaca all of this is set against a soundtrack of brass bands and exploding fireworks. This tradition can be traced back to an Aztec festival and In the pre-Hispanic era, it was common to use skulls to symbolize death and rebirth.
Day 4
Drive into the Sierra Mixteca range, a stunning set of mountains in the indigenous Mixteca region. Hike through a canyon and past waterfalls to the beautiful village of Santiago Apoala, before exploring the village. Overnight in the cabins of Santiago Apoala. Meal plan: B, L, D
Santiago Apoala is one the oldest villages of the Sierra Mixteca. According to tradition, the tree of life - which gave birth to humanity - can be found here. The village is set in a wonderful and enchanting landscape, - a green hidden valley and impressive waterfalls enclosed by steep cliffs. You don’t need much imagination to understand why the Mixtec people believe this place is their paradise.
Day 5
Half day hike to a waterfall with the possibility to swim. Stop for lunch and after lunch return to Oaxaca. Rest of the afternoon free. Overnight in Oaxaca. Meal plan: B, L
Day 6
Morning free. Visit Teotitlan for micro-finance tour. This tour with our partners Envia (www.envia.org) will give you a real insight into the lives of local people in this traditional Zapotec village famous for its weaving traditions. This tour will directly fund small micro-finance projects which are small interest-free loans to help people to start or expand their businesses. You will visit people's homes and they will explain what they will do with the loan from their own homes or places of business. The benefits these small loans can bring to people is quite incredible and Envia will send you an update on the people who explained their projects once they have received their loans. Return to Oaxaca. Overnight in Oaxaca. Meal plan: B, L
Envia have used the model of microfinance started in the 1970s in Bangladesh whereby underprivileged people who are unable to obtain credit from banks are given small loans by NGOs, which are used to start or expand businesses, and are paid back as any other loan. When the loans are repaid, they take their own low admin costs from this and reinvest the rest in further microfinance and other projects such as free English lessons for the people of Teotitlan.
Day 7
Breakfast, Visit of the colourful Ocotlan market and the handicraft villages of San Bartolo (black pottery), San Martin Tilcajete (painted wooden animals) and Santo Tomas Jalieza (textiles). Late afternoon free. Overnight in Oaxaca. Meal plan: B
Day 8
Day trip to Llano Grande, the smallest and highest village of Los Pueblos Mancomunados, for a walk in a cloud forest. Surrounded by pine forest the 150 inhabitants live in the cleanest community of Mexico and are happy to show you their beautiful area. Your hike passes through meadows covered with wild flowers and pine forest and leads to some dramatic views. Back in the village we enjoy a delicious lunch at Kata's restaurant. Relax for a while before returning to Oaxaca for overnight. Meal plan: B, L
Day 9
After breakfast there are a number of optional activities (these are included in the price of the tour but you must choose). Option 1: a cooking course learning some of the dishes that Oaxaca is famous for with one of Oaxaca's best chef's. Option 2: a guided tour of the botanical gardens of Oaxaca. Oaxaca is one of the world's biodiversity hotspots and home to more than 8,400 registered plant species, 738 bird species and 1,431 terrestrial vertebrate species, accounting for 50 percent of all species in Mexico. Extra option: visit Abastos market, one of the largest and most colourful markets in Oaxaca. This can be added to either of the previous options. Meal plan: B (Lunch too if you choose the cooking course)
Day 10
Drop to airport for return flight to Mexico City. Meal plan: B
